The three young women are all wearing outer garments over their dresses. 3), we see a higher waistline, creating a silhouette that is like a straight, slender column. In the engagement scene from Verona (Fig. The slightly high waistline and the hairstyle in this portrait are in the Florentine style.
The entire garment and the stomacher would be lined in linen to protect the outer fabric and reinforce the tight fit (Herald 210). The dark red color of these laces matches the belt, which conceals the seam at the waistline where the moderately full skirt of the gamurra is joined to its fitted bodice.
Another new feature in the 1490s is that laces, which had been primarily utilitarian in the past, become more important as details that focus attention and coordinate an ensemble (Herald 193). Red was chosen for the laces that hold the bodice and sleeves together, across the gaps where the white chemise is exposed. In this portrait the gamurra is made of blue fabric, either wool or silk, and the stomacher is green. 2), who may be Caterina Sforza, Countess of Forli and niece of Ludovico il Moro, Duke of Milan, is that the bodice fronts are very far apart, necessitating the use of an inserted triangular stomacher. What is new in the 1490s, as seen in Lorenzo di Credi’s Portrait of a Young Woman (Fig. This style of split bodices and sleeves had originated in Spain and taken hold in Italy beginning in the 1470s (Frick 158). Sleeves were also modular pieces that could be made of contrasting fabric and were typically only semi-attached at the shoulder. The gamurra was cut to fit tightly, with the bodice fronts deliberately too narrow to meet in the front, and sleeves too narrow to encircle the arm. Over it went the dress, called the gamurra in Italy (Herald 217). 1) shows us what the chemise looked like in this decade, its fullness gathered by means of drawstrings at the neckline, high waistline, and upper sleeve. An allegory of love by a follower of Botticelli (Fig. Women’s dress continued to be based upon the chemise, a long-sleeved undergarment of undyed linen (Boucher 445).
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